Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Dude ...

Check Kelly Slater out as he scores 20 out of 20 -- whatever that means.  He's apparently the Geoff Raymond of surfers ...

Watch the second wave, when they cut to the side angle and you're staring right up the tube.  Just once I'd like to rest my hand against the side of a wave like that.   Hard and soft, kinetic and potential, yes and no, the sun and the moon, the Secrets of the Universe and the fundamental Truths of Life, all right there where you can feel 'em.

Are you finished?
Because it felt like you were getting carried away a little bit.
Maybe.  But it makes me sad because I'm never gonna do it.
Do what?
Feel the side of that wave.
Dude ... your painting is your wave.
It is?
Totally, man.  You think all that stuff about the universe isn't right there in Big Wayne's mouth?
It is?
Totally, man.
I bet it feels like the side of a porpoise.
I bet it does too.


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